Cidrerie du Leguer - Cidre Brut (750ml)

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Producer	Cidrerie du Leguer
Country	France
Region	Brittany
Type	Cider
Size	750ml

Most of the French ciders we see in the U.S. come from Normandy, a rather expansive region west of Paris. You’ve probably heard of the beaches. Historic.

Bretagne, or Brittany as we like to say it, is a bit further afield, direction west. Depending on where exactly you’re going in Brittany, it can be quite a bit afield. In the case of Cidrerie du Léguer, how about an almost five and a half hour drive from Paris??? Take the more scenic route through Versailles and it’s going to cost you six and a half hours, from Paris. (Check out map, below and to the right.)

So yeah, quite a bit afield.

Comparing the ciders of Normandy and Brittany is a bit of a fool’s game, as you’re always going to find an important exception. But, being the fool I am, let’s use the comparison of Cognac and Armagnac? The polished and famous as compared to the more traditional / specific and rustic?

For sure, at least where Cédric is in Brittany, we are dealing with a more maritime, more extreme climate. The ciders here, we can say in general, are going to flaunt a higher level of acidity and bitterness. And thus, to counter this acidity and bitterness, we may have ciders that can handle a little more residual sugar. Though, like I said, this is all a fool’s game.

Cédric grew up here, in Brittany. After studies in agriculture he moved around France (and indeed the world) for a few years before he and his wife came upon this “almost abandoned” cider farm, and well, here it began. 2016 was the first vintage.

They are working organically (the place was already certified organic), though the truth is even more simple than this: they mow the lawn and prune the trees. That’s it. When the apples fall (and only then), they put them in crates to further ripen. Then they make their ciders. Cédric uses the old-school process of “keeving” to clean the musts (thus they are not filtered) and all fermentations are natural. The ciders are bottled with no sulfur.

The trees here are as young as two and as old as thirty years, with a whole selection of indigenous varieties such as Doux Moen, Douce Coet Lignée, Marie Ménard, Peau de Chien, Kermerrien, Petit Jaune, Locarvert, Rouget de Dol, Judor, Frich’elach, etc., if you know any of these. The soils are mostly granite, with various levels (or not) of clay.

For these early years, the key is experimentation, tasting, learning. Thus, in the next few years (and maybe for the next few decades?), we will likely see new cuvées come in, and then maybe later some cuvées go out. So be it.

The key, as Cédric thinks about it at least, is learning to tame the high acidity, the fine but very pervasive tannins. Early experiments with black currant (for the rosé) and hops have resulted in just beautiful, integrated ciders that have more complexity, yet don’t lose their vinous quality.

Yet, already, undeniably, Cédric’s ciders have a depth and toothsome grip. They are neither totally rustic, nor polished and suave; they feel rounded and brimming with flavor, yet crystalline and direct.

This is just the beginning. The first chapter has begun. We are so psyched to be working with Cédric.

Cider Notes: The “Brutbrut” is Cédric’s drier cider. It comes topped by a traditional Champagne cage, but the bubbles, the mousse here, is very delicate and soft – almost nonexistent, at least visually. You feel it a bit more on the palate as a textural presence. The overall impression is full and rounded, juicy. It begs you not just to drink it, but gulp it. The magic here is the balance, the play of sweet fruit and acidity and bitterness. I love the energy of this wine, the way the polished fruit is generous but also clear. Damn this is good.

Sourced from two different orchards the cider is, as with all of Cédric’s ciders, made from apples that have fallen and were allowed to further ripen in wooden crates. Cédric uses the old-school process of “keeving” to clean the musts (thus they are not filtered) and all fermentations are natural. The ciders are bottled with no sulfur.

Fruity, slightly mineral, good length on the palate. Lively on the palate.